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The train goes under the English Channel, so half of the time there’s not even a view out the window. I’d bought economy tickets a month in advance for $70. I walked along the Serpentine until I reached the trendy as f Serpentine Gallery - with the Zaha Hadid pavilion attached! The late “queen of the curve” is my favorite architect of all time, and her structure is otherworldly, like an oyster shell glowing in the dark. It’s a lot like Central Park, except there’s a skinny, squiggly lake called the Serpentine … snaking through it. 7 p.m.: Walk through Hyde Park and find the Serpentine Gallery Since lion cubs are no longer sold there - as they were in the London Swinging ’60s - just the food halls of the legendary department store are enough. The Daily Mail says that the flashy cars belong to “children of sheikhs and oligarchs,” but who knows? You know you’re in affluent Knightsbridge when you start seeing, like, lime-green Ferraris and electric-violet Jaguars. It was fun being on Kings Road, where all the punks used to hang out in the 1970s. This trip, it was a (subdued) show on the French street photographer JR. There’s always a good exhibit at the Saatchi Gallery, which belongs to that dude who choked out Nigella Lawson. It’s another legal graffiti “venue” it’s open 24 hours, and it’s huge!Ĥ p.m.: View the exhibit at the Saatchi Gallery I cabbed to nearby Waterloo to check out the Leake Tunnel. 8 p.m.: See the (legal) graffiti at Leake Tunnel I watched some street artists catch some tags while I photographed the “abandoned” basketball hoop at the Stockwell Hall Of Fame, the former children’s athletic park turned legal-graffiti spot. There are winding market stalls, the famous Electric Avenue, clubs like the Ritzy, and wig shops galore. South London time! I hopped on the tube to Brixton, the edgy Afro Carribean cultural hub. The iconic Camden Town pub - and former Wino haunt - is the Hawley Arms (2 Castlehaven Road).
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Marks Place on steroids: full of mohawked punks, smoke shops, Amy Winehouse pieces by English street artist Bambi, alternative clubs like KOKO, and a market built into horse stalls. I started the day in Camden Town in Northwest London. There are houseboats, tunnels, storybook-looking warehouse flats, and willow trees. This is one of my favorite spots in the entire city. I cabbed east to Haggerston - ten minutes away - and went down the enchanted staircase to the Regents Canal at Kingsland Road. I had a drink at the Ace Hotel and watched people huffing nitrous oxide out of balloons outside. I went to the graffiti spots, like the Nomadic Community Gardens and the party tunnel by the Box Park (where I saw a fox). It’s kind of like the Meatpacking District in New York - but covered in murals. My favorite is Serotonin (194 Brick Lane), where I once bought an early-2000s Roberto Cavalli minidress for 40 quid.Īt the end of Brick Lane, you hit Shoreditch, the most popular neighborhood in East London. If you go during the day, you can shop the vintage boutiques. It’s so visually stimulating: one of the best walks in town whether it’s 1 p.m.
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If you book one of those - call ahead and request a window.ġ0 p.m.: Go for a nighttime walk from Brick Lane to Shoreditchīrick Lane is HQ for London’s Bangladeshi community and a graffiti-and-street-art mecca. There are tiny rooms there for as low as $50. I stayed in a full suite with a big kitchen for $119 a night.
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The windows only crack open and there are weird lights and no-slip rails everywhere. It’s right on top of Hackney Central Station you can hear the trains come and go. I stay at the decidedly non-magical Kip Hotel when I’m low on money, which is often.
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Everywhere you go, you tap your OysterCard - which is like a MetroCard. I switched to the Overground at Highbury and Islington. I took the Heathrow Express train to Paddington Station, then hopped on the Underground. You buy all your transport passes in one place: at the cluster of machines by the exit for trains. Seriously! I’ve waited longer in lines at Forever 21. I’d read about nightmarish multi-hour immigration lines at Heathrow - especially for those who fly British Airways, FYI - but I was lucky to breeze through “digital” immigration in under 15 minutes. I had white wine and watched a CC Sabathia documentary. I Google the airplane model and “seat map” on nerdy airplane-aficionado websites if I have to.) Dinner was couscous and chicken. (Be sure not to book on the plane wing, though! Rookie mistake. I’d bought an American Airlines for $502, and it was fine. That airline ceased international flights during COVID, so now we’re all stuck with full-fare one-way flights from JFK to Heathrow. You used to be able to fly on the cheap to London - for, like, $200 - on Norwegian Air. 11 a.m.: Arrive at London Heathrow and travel to Hackney